Wallet #9

10.00

Welcome to Wallet. A publication for your pocket – a small start to a larger conversation on the fashion industry and how it operates and capitalises on us. With a sharp pen Wallet applies political dimensions to the sleek surface of fashion. Everyone is looking for your wallet

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Critical Canons

The ninth edition of Wallet ‘Culture of Critique” is a conversation on criticism and its numerous contemporary forms.
Fashion criticism is a complicated thing, and often dressed up in dierent guises: as collection reviews, society columns,
industry reports, or ethical investigations into businesses. What’s the dierence between fashion coverage and fashion
criticism? In this issue, “Culture of Critique”, we will take a stab at describing the state of fashion criticism, its potentials and
its pitfalls.

This issue’s text conversation invites three selected critics altogether representing the Culture of Critique; The Washington
Post’s Senior Critic-at-Large Robin Givhan, one of fashion’s most critical independent voices Steve Oklyn as well as the Chief
Fashion Critic at the New York Times Vanessa Friedman. With these names we’re diving into very new directions of critique;
ranging from the anonymous “call out” critic using sharp image-making, social media and lists as means of conducting criticism,
to the traditional newspaper critic with a stronger evaluative function, besides working more broadly and visibly. What’s the
role of the fashion critic today?

In the visual conversation we want to encourage our reader to playfully engage in the practice of critique. The interviews
are accompanied by a visual essay presenting the work of 20 dierent fashion designers – along with a five-star rating system
for you to fill in and make your own critical evaluation, an annotated micro-review in print form. Including Agnès B., Ann
Demeulemeester, Gauntlett Cheng, Hermès, Miu Miu, Robert Wun, Susan Cianciolo, Takahiromiyashita The Soloist, TelfarUndercover and Vacquera.

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